The Case to Drink More American Wine
A California winemaker urges people to buy and drink American wine for two months to help save the industry + 15 American wines to seek out.
“American wineries are struggling right now. We have a huge amount of inventory and a huge decrease in sales. And you can help us. We are asking you for one thing: Drink our wines. Buy our wines.”
With that plea on Instagram, Monte Rio winemaker Patrick Cappiello urged American wine merchants, restaurant and bar wine buyers, sommeliers, and consumers to only buy and consume American wine for the next two months.
Cappiello, an influential New York-based sommelier-turned independent California winemaker (with Monte Rio, Skull Wines, and the Piquette Project, the latter two in partnership with maverick winemaker Pax Mahle of Pax Wines), said the next two months could be crucial for the survival of numerous small- to medium-sized, mostly independent wineries across the country.
While conglomerates like Constellation Brands, Gallo, and Trinchero Family Estates, which all own and operate numerous wine brands with revenues in the millions, would survive, it’s the smaller labels — many of which often fly under the radar among everyday wine drinkers — that are struggling.
“If we don’t shift the focus now to concentrate on drinking domestic wine and supporting domestic producers,” Cappiello told me on a call last week, “then the producers that have worked so hard to build change on what we’re doing here are the ones who are going to fail.”
Cappiello said his sales in the first two quarters of 2023 were stellar, but then in August he saw an 80% drop from the previous year and, overall, saw his sales decline 20% for the year.
“I didn’t overproduce,” he said. “I produce based on my sales trajectory and we’re dependent on what our distributors are telling us what they want and need.”
Winemakers order grapes from dedicated wine-growing farmers (if they don’t own their own vineyards), but sometimes they can’t make good on those orders. The decrease in consumer demand is forcing growers to tear out thousands of acres of vineyards. The Lodi, Calif., area is being especially impacted. As the largest wine-growing area in the nation, by tonnage, Lodi’s growers have seen demand plummet and, in turn, are scrapping a lot of planted vines. Industry leaders in California have called for the removal of nearly 10% of planted acres — about 50,000 in total.
“We’re trying to hold our agreements with our farmers, who have left a lot of fruit on the vine,” Cappiello added. “In Lodi, they were fucked. The big brands in California left a lot on the vine. Many young producers, including myself, had to call farmers and tell them they could try to sell fruit to other places because we may not have been able to pay.”
Changing tastes, more options
In the last year, American wineries saw sales decrease between 2% and 4%, according to Silicon Valley Bank’s (SVB) State of the US Wine Industry 2024 report. This can be attributed to various reasons like a glut of wine on the market, decreased interest in imbibing among younger consumers, increased interest in non-alcoholic beverages, and the legalization of cannabis. Still, 69% of American adults (broken down across three age groups) said they regularly consume wine.
During the pandemic, everyone seemed to be drinking. Wineries saw their direct-to-consumer sales increase. More shops — online and physical — opened to serve the increased demand. And the drinking public realized how many options exist, whether that’s wine or spirits or beer or hard seltzer or non-alcoholic drinks or smoking weed or eating edibles. The list goes on and on — and the choices continue to grow.
“It’s the pandemic boom catching up to us in a big way,” said Jonas Bittencourt, general manager and wine director at John’s Food & Wine in Chicago. “There was demand three years ago that ramped everything up and now consumption leveled out or decreased so there’s just surplus. Additionally there is too much wine. Too many options, I feel.”
That sentiment is echoed by Damien Casten, founder and CEO of boutique wine importer and distributor Candid Wines. In addition to domestic producers experiencing a slowdown, Casten said consumers seem to be moving away from big, bold wines to seek out wine that is lighter and more refreshing or trendy like pet-nats, orange wine, or lesser-known varietals.
That idea was encapsulated in award-winning wine writer Jon Bonné’s The New California Wine. That book highlighted the pioneering younger winemakers who were and continue to revolutionize viticulture in California, and beyond. People just need to drink more of their wine.
“This is the opposite of the trophy cabs and butterball chardonnays,” said master sommelier Alpana Singh, who also owns Alpana restaurant in Chicago, who referenced Bonne’s book in an email to me. “These are wines that have been inspired by the their old-world archetypes, yet with unique personalities unto themselves, and firmly rooted in the California terroir. And like their old-world brethren, they are crafted to work well at the dinner table.”
Cappiello and so many other winemakers across America continue to produce wines that fit into that description, yet struggle to always cut through the noise. Why? The vast majority (more than 90%) of wine sold in America is under $12, so you’re seeing a lot of mass-produced wine being purchased at grocery stores and convenience shops. That’s wine like Trinchero’s Sutter Home or the Gallo-owned Barefoot, the top-selling wine in America. Gallo declined to comment for this article.
So what can be done? Seek out and drink more diverse and possibly lesser-known American wine brands. Discover wines from emerging regions like Virginia, Temecula, Michigan, Texas, New York’s Finger Lakes, and, yes, Lodi. It’s not all about Napa.
That isn’t to say don’t also enjoy your favorite wine from France, Spain, Italy, or Argentina — and even Napa. But with more than 11,000 wineries in the U.S. — many also that are owned or led by women (it’s Women’s History Month after all) — you have plenty of options to choose from. No, 11,000 wineries don’t all produce good wine, buuuuuuuut there’s a LOT that’s pretty damn fantastic. Ready to drink some?
10 American wines to drink now
When I started thinking about writing this column, I put a call out on social media asking friends in the wine industry (writers, wine buyers, somms, restaurateurs, etc. — or frankly anyone who wanted to chime in) to recommend a single bottle of a U.S.-produced wine they love and why.
With that, here’s a list of wines they — and I — think you should go out and buy. Whether at your favorite local shop, online wine store, or directly from the producer, go get a bottle to enjoy. And enjoy it now. Don’t hold onto it. Buy it. Drink it. And share it. As Cappiello urged, do this for the next two months. It may have more impact than you know.
Left Food Charley Murmur, Traverse City, MI.: 61% Pinot Gris, 19% Pinot Blanc, 13% Chardonnay, 5% Traminette, 2% Kerner. "It’s a great value, super versatile white" — Martin Sorge, baker and winner of The Great American Baking Show.
Longevity Wines Chardonnay, Livermore, CA: "It will always have a place in my fridge!" — wine writer Janice Nakisha Williams. Latest vintage not on the winery site, but find it at Total Wine & More.
Adelsheim 2021 Willamette Valley Chardonnay, Willamette Valley, OR.: “They are doing some really interesting things. This chardonnay is spectacular, and I do not like chardonnay. It’s buoyant and lovely, and around $26 at Whole Foods. — Lizz Kannenberg, senior creative director at Sprout Social.
Monte Rio 2022 Old Vines Zinfandel, Lodi, CA: "It is super sexy. Patrick [Cappiello] is fearless and humble. He’s a great mentor and guide, but does it in one of the most authentic ways possible. It’s a joy." — John’s Food & Wine GM and wine director Jonas Bittencourt.
Lonesome Rock 2021 The Estate Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, OR.: “It’s absolutely delicious both their Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Great story behind the founder, Daniel, and the wine itself. — Brett McCall, founder of the McCall Collective.
Cadre Wines 2022 Sea Queen Albariño, Edna Valley, San Luis Obispo, CA — “The albariño is delightful,” — Alpana Singh
Early Mountain Vineyards Petite Manseng, Madison, VA: “I think Petite Manseng is a particularly vivid grape, and especially in the hands of Maya Hood-White, becomes a layered robust white that's both approachable and elegant.” — wine writer Pamela Vachon
Cartograph Wines 2020 Gould Family Riesling, Healdsburg, CA: "Dry, light and refreshing the Gould riesling is something I can sip on all day. I love to cook big Indian dinners to share with friends and the citrus and floral notes of the riesling work perfectly with the aromatic spices of the food. — Cynthia Ariosta, owner of Pizzeria Tra Vigne in St. Helena, CA
Red Tail Ridge 2022 Estate Dry Riesling, Finger Lakes, NY — from Beth O'Reilly, owner of O'Reilly Public Relations
Oyster River Winegrowers Red, Warren, Maine (grapes from North Fork of Long Island) — "It’s the only time I’ve ever bought a case of wine. It’s juicy and light without being overly sweet. Also the label says it 'pairs well with snacks,' which makes me lol every time.” — Madeline “Awesome” Dowling, senior music producer, Doner Advertising.
SG List: 5 American wines I high fived recently
C.L. Butaud 2021 Cease & Desist Red Blend, Austin, TX (tempranillo, grenache, cinsault, counaise): A truly fabulous bottle. The wine surprisingly has a lighter body with good acid, red fruit, cherry, blueberry, some herbal notes, and a bit of smoke.
The Folk Machine 2022 Parts & Labor Red Wine, California (grenache-dominant blend): Starts tart with a lighter body. Has some barnyard funk on the nose mingling with violet and raspberry. It's a bit spritzy. Starts to open up with air, adding more body a hint of leather, spice, and darker berries.
Thacher Winery 2022 Own-Rooted Chenin Blanc, Paso Robles, CA.: It’s zesty, spritzy, grapefruit, pear, has a bit of chalkiness — and you can almost taste sea salt from the ocean in it. I loved this one. Chenin blanc is ready for its time in the spotlight.
The Ordinary Fellow 2022 Pinot Noir, Colorado: Wine from Colorado? Absolutely! This is fresh and bright, with red fruit like cherry and raspberry, with some herbal and savory notes.
Tank Garage Winery 2022 Skateland, Pét-Nat Sparkling Rosé, California (67% barbera, 11% chardonnay, 6% grenache, 6% mourvèdre, 5% cinsault, 5% falanghina): Pop the top off this bottle made in Calistoga with a throwback label and get ready to have fun (see the photo above). Light bubbles, watermelon, fresh strawberries, good acid.
Bravo! Thanks for shining a light on this! <3
I grew up in Virginia not far from Early Mountain Vineyards! (My mom taught at Madison Elementary.) Was always partial to Barboursville Vineyards but I am not familiar with Early Mountain. Planning to make a stop next time I’m home.