New Restaurants Are Nice — But Classics Are Classic For a Reason
These are 15 of my favorite Chicago restaurants I return to again and again
About a month ago, I got legendary restaurant critic Ruth Reichl's newsletter. She talked about the thousands of restaurants that have closed in New York City. But it became more real when that large number (4,500 in NYC alone — there are countless more across the country) got converted into actual names of places. She then specifically referenced a few places in LA that have been around a long time or have maybe more recent buzz. And then — poof — one day they’re gone. Sometimes you never know when a spot closes, other times there’s big news about it. But many times, if it was one of your places, you get a pang of sadness and longing. You wish you could have gone one last time. But if they don’t give you a heads up they’re closing, you’re shit out of luck.
So a few weeks ago, when Drew and I went to dinner with our friends Jeff and Robyn Brecker to Gather in Lincoln Square — a place I’ve been going somewhat regularly since it opened in 2012, especially to sit at the former chef’s counter to scarf down their mouthwatering bacon-topped burger — I felt a lot of joy seeing it packed. And being wowed at every bite that went into my mouth. Some things have changed, like founding chef Ken Carter no longer being there, but overall Gather is and has always been a consistently delicious neighborhood spot with amazing service. So it got me thinking: Sure, go check out all the new places opening, but don’t sacrifice your old haunts. Those favorites that have treated you well over the years. Those places you know at least one dish you’re going to order and there’s always someone — a server, bartender, host or manager — who you know and are excited to see.
So here are the places I love in Chicago and will continue to go back to again and again. God willing. What are your favorite places? Leave a comment below, I’d love to see what everyone else loves.
15 Chicago restaurants I love
In June of 2020, restaurants got the green light to reopen outdoor dining. I proclaimed I didn’t need or want to rush back to be a guinea pig when none of us knew what the hell was going on with covid. Yet on the day restaurants reopened, on a whim I called Anteprima to see if they would have service — and we went that Saturday night. Bundled up, we hit the back patio at Anteprima, where we’ve eaten countless times since it opened in 2007. Our favorite server, Armando, dressed in a hazmat-like outfit, greeted us with smiles. At one point, owner Marty Fosse (who is truly the kindest man and always, ALWAYS, has the perfect wine recommendation) got everyone’s attention. He spoke about how difficult the past few months were, how much he cherished people’s take-out orders, and raised a glass to this extended family who supported them. It was an emotional moment that we all shared, knowing we could see a light at the far-away end of the tunnel. And we all felt like we were home. This wonderful rustic 50-seat Italian restaurant on Clark Street in Andersonville with its ever-changing, seasonal menu makes me happy every single time I’m there.
More than what I said above, one thing I love about this cozy spot on Lincoln Avenue across from the Old Town School of Folk Music is that no matter what night you go, it’s always buzzy. The staff is always cheerful, helpful, and just fucking cool. The drinks are spot on (I had their wheated bourbon Old Fashioned last time that was ) and the seasonal menu is always just perfect. This place is the quintessential neighborhood joint. No matter if you’re sitting inside or out on the wood-slat-covered patio, you will always have a great time and fabulous meal at Gather.
Birthdays. Anniversaries. Random Tuesday nights. Mon Ami became our spot after our dear friends Brad Lippitz and Yoni Pizer first took us here god knows how many years ago. We’d get dirty martinis, frisée salads with a slightly runny poached egg and crispy lardons, and share oysters. Of course we’d order steak frites (I’m partial to the Bordelaise prep with the caramelized red onion) with those perfectly crispy frites — or a fish Gabi for Drew or scallops for me, if they’re ever on special. We would go so often we either would sit with our favorite servers, John or Sasha, and almost always at our favorite in back by a window. Over time, our favorite servers left, the room got a bit dingy, and it felt like something was missing. But then Drew and I went just before Christmas in 2022 and a buzz, a glow, a freshness permeated the newly renovated room. New chef David Koehn has injected fresh energy into the menu. It’s as good as it has always been and Mon Ami celebrates its 25th anniversary this year. You know we will raise a glass.
I started thinking about what to say about Avec and my first thought was, “mic drop.” How do you sum up one of the restaurants that has forever changed the way people dine in Chicago? Who knew when this Swedish-design-inspired restaurant opened as a wine bar with flavors bounding from all points of the Mediterranean and a wine list to match would still be around 20 years later? Erin Boone and I would go there after working at Vivo, sit at the bar and order those iconic bacon-wrapped, chorizo-stuffed medjool dates, a flatbread, maybe the whole fish, some gorgeous salad. She’d order us wine because, frankly, she always will know so much more about wine than me. Over the years so many incredible chefs — from Paul Kahan to Koren Grieveson to Erling Wu-Bower — have added their flair while maintaining the vibe that makes avec avec. So yeah, what can you say about avec? It’s the best.
Talk about a hidden gem! A hidden gem that is consistently packed for weekend brunch and turns into one of the Far North Side’s best queer bars at night. If you have a hankering for something brunchy, chances are you’ll find it on this menu, chock full of organic ingredients whenever possible. Get a bloody mary (I like the one with sriracha), order chilaquiles, pancakes, or an overstuffed breakfast burrito, get a housemade turkey or veggie burger, sit back, laugh, commiserate, and just love this Uptown classic.
Many people go here for the tableside crispy-skinned Beijing duck service, where you get a smorgasbord of duck delights — fried rice, soup, bao, and more — or maybe the noodle dishes, the barbecue ribs, or many of the other authentic Chinese dishes. While I do love these, what I really cherish at Sun Wah are he egg rolls. Growing up, on Sundays my family would drive into the city to have dinner at my grandparents (the one who bootlegged booze during Prohibition) and pick up Pekin House on Devon Ave. We’d have egg foo young, lo mein and always egg rolls. They were the fatty kind of egg rolls – deep fried, filled with shredded cabbage, carrots, pork (clearly we weren’t keeping kosher). The first time I had Sun Wah egg rolls, my childhood memories came flooding back. I was once there with my friend Chandra Ram and we got a second order, promising never to tell anyone else about it (sorry Chandra – I slipped!). I once asked owner Kelly Cheng why they’re so damn good. “Peanut butter,” she answered. They spread peanut butter inside the wrapping before deep frying and it oozes throughout. And it’s fucking delicious.
Talk about an O.G. What a special, cherished place Lula is. Thank you Jason Hammel for giving a damn about local and seasonal food long before most everyone else and starting a culinary revolution in Logan Square. What started as a small storefront more than 20 years ago has blossomed into one of Chicago’s (and dare I say, America’s?) most beloved restaurants. Its artsy, hipster vibe remains with a staff that will educate you about the ingredients if you ask, recommend a funky biodynamically made wine, or leave you alone to enjoy everything from a smoked trout scramble, beet bruschetta, or the chickpea and fennel tagine (my new fave) at breakfast and lunch or spaghetti with pancetta and queso fresco, a perfectly roasted chicken, or seeded-crust whole roasted skate wing with celery root. Long live Lula.
This ironically named jewel box of a restaurant on Armitage in Logan Square owned by chef Jason Vincent and wine guru Josh Perlman was a hit even before it opened. I was going to go on about how much I adore this 45-seater with flavors that pop and wines that make you want to know more, but I’ll just paste this from their website, as it truly sums it up perfectly. “We promise to make simple, delicious (slightly cheffy) food for people to eat. We promise to be ready with the wine should the people want it. We don’t have room for a lot of people, so, people please, make your reservations early.” In warm months, sit on the back patio and then grab a drink nearby at Scofflaw (especially if you like gin) or Outside Voices (especially if you like natural wine)
I started going to Irazú in the mid-’90s when I lived on Cortland Street in Bucktown a few doors down from Lottie’s. I don’t know where I heard about this Costa Rican restaurant, but the first time I got a chicken burrito and an oatmeal shake, I was hooked. No matter when I went, mama was behind the counter and she always gave you shit, with a smile. I eventually branched out and started ordering more of those classic Tico dishes, but will always go back to my beloved chicken burrito. Over time, her incredibly sweet kids, Henry and Miriam, took over and kept the vibe while expanding. It’s always been BYOB and it’s always been wonderful.
Lao Peng You
This is a newer favorite, having only opened a few years ago and only first having it during the pandemic when you could mostly only carry out from places. We maybe went a little crazy and ordered like seven dishes between the two of us — mushroom and chive dumplings, wood ear mushrooms with garlic and sesame oil, cold noodles with soy and peanuts, the spicy-as-fuck dan dan noodles, dou sha bing (the red bean bread), and more. The flavors popped. The spice hit just right. Their URL is oldfriendchicago.com and it truly feels like an old friend I hope will be in my life for a long time.
Owner Aldo Zaninotto debuted Langhe in 2014 with the super-talented chef Cameron Grant and it quickly became a favorite. Testaccio quietly followed during the pandemic and stole my heart. No matter which I hit, I’m always happy. Whether having a savory flan, fettuccine ragu or the classic plin, or the grilled bistecca at Langhe or creamy burrata with Calabrian chiles, Roman artichokes, or orecchiette di cacio e pepe (!!!), there’s always a great glass or bottle of wine to accompany.
Say what you will about “Chicago-style pizza,” if you’re not having tavern style, you’re doing it wrong. And Pat’s does it right. Crackly crust, rich tomato paste, an even amount of mozz spread around. Their online ordering platform makes it so easy for us to split a pizza — whole mushroom, half Italian sausage. And a basic yet tasty Caesar salad. I love that they have their own delivery folks. It’s old school in the best way. (Speaking of old school, if you’re in or near Albany Park, think about ordering from Marie’s, where my parents went growing up.)
We’re fortunate to live in an area with a glut of incredible Thai restaurants and I’ll admit we don’t always order from Immm (In On Thai is another go to for classic dishes). But when we do, we know we’re in for a meal packed with flavor. This Thai street food spot in Uptown on Broadway introduced me to dishes I had never heard of. It also offers those familiar dishes like pad see eiw and green curry, but with next-level flavor. The space also oozes with friendly energy. If you find yourself on the North Side or plan to grab dinner before a show at the Riv or Aragon, check it out.
I had driven down the stretch of Lawrence Avenue through Albany Park countless times and never knew about Lawrence Fish Market. I remember an old friend once talking about a total hole in the wall where you could get quality sushi for, like, nothing, but I never knew the name. It wasn’t until a few years ago that someone mentioned it again and I had to find it. I’m so glad I did. Now renovated and cleaned up, Lawrence Fish Market is a cash only, carry-out sushi spot and fish market where you can get a platter of good quality sushi (we’re not talking Kyoten or Omakase Room quality, but still damn good) for a great price. Pro tip: Call at least an hour ahead, especially on Friday or Saturday, because they get super busy.
SG List
SG RIP: Chicago restaurants gone, but never forgotten
Sadly, nothing lasts forever. Some restaurants close because of lack of business, others close because the owner wants to retire or, sadly, dies and their family doesn’t want to carry on. While there are many, I can say these are definitely some I miss. In no particular order:
The Como Inn: We had countless dinners here before Bulls or Blackhawks games in the ‘70s and ‘80s, or family celebrations (I feel like it was one of my grandmother’s favorite spots). It’s where I first fell in love with minestrone.
Ina’s: The restaurant may be gone, but thank the lord I still have my beloved friend, The Breakfast Queen, I get to hug and break bread with.
Jane’s: After I moved into my first Chicago apartment in Bucktown, my mom and I had lunch at Janes. It quickly became one of my all-time favorite places.
Myron & Phil’s: Anyone who knows the Benderskys knows this was our place. Best relish tray around.
Quiote: It wasn’t around long enough, but damn the mezcal margaritas and tacos were the shit. Its closure allowed Testaccio to emerge.
Sabatino’s: Try getting a table any night of the week and you had to wait. But the bar was a scene and once you sat, you ate like royalty and it didn’t break the bank. I love that my parents went on the final night.
Nightwood: This chef-driven spot in Pilsen is where Jason Vincent made his mark long before he was a Food & Wine best new chef or crowned Cochon 555’s King of Porc.
Kith & Kin: Where the world really got the first taste of chef Andrew Brochu’s fried chicken and I learned about Anson Mills grits and how to pronounce Apalachicola, as in oysters.
I have to add the OG Feast on North Avenue. And then of course when it moved to Damen. I credit Debbie for teaching me how to eat like an adult — and brunch like one too.
I only ever eat in Chicago when I'm visiting you, so I haven't been to many of these. I loved Myron & Phil's and wish more restaurants would give me a relish tray! You know I love Del Rio in the burbs. Some of the best classics in my hometown are Boulevard, Delfina (but only with you), Thanh Long, Kokkari, Tadich Grill and Zazie for brunch.